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One group of tomato varieties that stands out for its resistance to both early and late blight are the Mountain Magic, Plum Regal, Defiant PhR, Jasper, Matt’s Wild Cherry, Juliet, Nectar, Cloudy Day, and Stellar varieties. Plant breeders have been working hard to develop tomato varieties that are resistant to early and late blight. It can be frustrating for gardeners to put in so much effort into growing their tomatoes only to see them fall victim to these diseases. The symptoms of late blight are similar, but the spots are typically larger, and there is also a white, moldy appearance on the affected areas. The symptoms of early blight include circular, dark brown spots on the leaves, stems and fruit. These diseases are caused by fungal pathogens and can spread rapidly in warm and humid conditions, leading to significant damage to tomato plants, reduced yields and lower quality fruit. Image: Florida Division of Plant Industry Archive, Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, Bugwood.Tomatoes are a beloved and versatile vegetable that are a staple in many gardens, but they can be vulnerable to diseases such as early blight and late blight. Spores will also overwinter in infected seed potatoes, so you should only plant certified disease-free seed potatoes. The spores only overwinter in living plants, so remove any volunteers and solanum weeds. If you must use sprinklers, water in the morning or early evening, so the leaves can dry out before nightfall. It is important that leaves don’t stay wet for long periods, so ideally you should use drip irrigation. To minimize the effects of this disease, make sure the plants have good drainage and air circulation (staking and pruning can help with tomatoes). Newer varieties specifically bred for resistance include Ferline’ F1 hybrid and 'Fantasio’ F1 hybrid. Resistant tomato varieties include: Stupice, Legend, Juliet and Matt's Wild Cherry. Resistant potato varieties include Defender, Cara, Sante, Cosmos, Romano and Jacqueline Lee. The following varieties are considered blight resistant, though strains of the disease vary in their virulence and even resistant varieties may not be immune. If growing conditions are always favorable to this disease then its best to use resistant varieties. This disease affects yield, but doesn’t affect storability (don’t replant these of course). The only thing you can do in these circumstances is dig the tubers 2 weeks after the tops die down and use them. In Western Washington whole beds of Tomatoes and Potatoes died almost overnight. In cool wet weather you should watch for signs of infection and remove any affected plants immediately, but it’s an indication that the plants aren’t happy with the growing conditions. Brown sunken patches appear on the tubers and may spread into the flesh causing it to rot (or provide entry for other rot causing organisms). It first manifests itself as gray-brown necrotic patches on the margins of lower leaves, but these quickly enlarge and kill the whole leaves (sometimes overnight). This fungus prefers high humidity, wet weather and mild temperatures (50 to 80 degrees F). They can also be carried on the wind and in the right conditions they can travel long distances rapidly (as happened during the Potato Famine).

The spores are most often carried by soil splashed on to leaves by rain or overhead irrigation. It is called Late Blight because it prefers warmer weather than Early Blight and usually occurs later in the year (it doesn’t usually bother early crops). Though best known as a potato disease, it also affects tomatoes, peppers and eggplant.

This fungus disease is notorious because it caused the Potato Famine that killed one and a half million Irish people and causing another million to emigrate.